Tanzania is not a culinary destination in the classical sense. You don't go there for the food. But once you're there, you discover there is more to taste than you expected — and that some things are simply perfect.
Ugali — the unshakeable foundation
Ugali is Tanzania's national staple: a thick porridge of maize flour, cooked until it becomes a firm, clay-like mass. You eat it with your hands, tear off a piece, roll it into a small bowl and scoop up stew, beans or spinach. It tastes of nothing — until you understand it is meant as a neutral vehicle for flavour. After a week you start to love it.
Nyama Choma — grilled meat
Literally "grilled meat". Goat, chicken or beef, roasted over charcoal until the outside is crispy and the meat dry but fragrant. You always eat it with Kachumbari — a fresh Tanzanian salsa of tomato, onion, coriander and pepper. This is fast food, festive meal and everyday lunch all at once.
Chipsi Mayai — the hidden gem
"Chipsi Mayai" means chips omelette. Chips are baked into an omelette, served with sauce. It sounds strange. It is delicious. You find it at every street corner in Arusha and Dar es Salaam for a few hundred shilling.
Zanzibar Pizza
This has nothing to do with Italian pizza. A Zanzibar pizza is a pancake-like dough filled with meat, onion, egg and sometimes Nutella (for dessert), folded and baked on an iron plate. You eat it at the Forodhani night market in Stone Town. Compulsory.
Supu ya Ndizi — banana soup
Green bananas, stewed in a rich broth with meat or vegetables. A comfort dish you eat in the countryside. If you are lucky, your guide invites you to a local family home — then you eat this.
Drinks: coconut and chai
Fresh coconut (Dafu) is ubiquitous on Zanzibar — chilled, offered by street vendors for one dollar. The ultimate thirst quencher after a game drive. Chai (sweet tea with milk and spices) you drink always, everywhere, with everyone. Never refuse a cup of chai — it is a gesture of hospitality.
Vegetarians
Tanzania is not the easiest country for vegetarians, but it is certainly possible. Beans (maharage), lentils (dengu), spinach (mchicha), rice and chapati are everywhere. Always say in advance "sijui nyama" (I don't eat meat) — then the cook adapts.
What to avoid
Never drink tap water — always bottled. Raw vegetables at street stalls we always wash. Ice cubes in local bars are a grey area. On safari in a lodge or camp everything is safe — the kitchens are equipped for international visitors. We always give a detailed health briefing before departure.